By Robin Esrock

Departing St John’s for our first hike on the East Coast Trail, Jamie Hill pulls his shuttle van into a parking lot to pick up some fresh cod tongues. Waiting for him is a buddy, a local fisherman, with his highly sought-after catch. 

“You get two fillets off a fish, but only one tongue,” Jamie explains, with a unique Newfoundland accent that fell off the boat somewhere between Ireland and North America. You know you’re somewhere special when the day starts with cod tongues and unusual twangs. 

Jamie has been driving Great Canadian Trail guests to trailheads and accommodation since we began offering our East Coast Trail itineraries. Born and raised in St. John’s, you’re in safe hands. He’s been driving passengers around the province for over four decades, and knows the roads, towns and locals just about better than anyone. 

“My Dad was a district manager, and I’d go with him on his trips around the province,” Jamie tells me. “If you can poke a hole in the map anywhere in this province, I’ve probably been there.”

As far as passengers go, he particularly enjoys chatting with hikers. 

“It’s a very eclectic crowd and hikers are so easy to get along with! I don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone get upset. You have to adapt to conditions on the trail, you don’t know what’s around the corner, and you got to be prepared. Hikers just make the best of it. They just have the right state of mind, whether they’re on the trail or in my van.” 

I ask him what his passengers make of Newfoundland. 

“Sometimes they’re amazed by the weather, which can be much better, or more challenging, than they expected. We can get three seasons in one day. If there’s a 40km/hr wind, hikers wonder if it’s OK, but in Newfoundland we don’t even worry about that! Still, we don’t let anyone go on the trail if it’s not safe. Sometimes we’ll switch things up depending on the rain and wind.” 

Jamie says that visitors are often surprised by the modern commercialism in St John’s, and how it contrasts with the rugged scenery just ten minutes’ drive outside the city. They also comment how friendly everybody is, how locals will engage you in conversation on the street, offer to help you out, and how drivers always stop for pedestrians. 

“I’m told it doesn’t happen in the bigger cities,” says Jamie.

Unless guests are continuing onwards in Newfoundland, Jamie is often the first and last contact for our hikers, a role he enjoys. “By the time folks leave, you know all about them, and they know all about you,” he says. He’s had passengers from Australia, the UK, the US, New Zealand and Europe, guests who have climbed Mount Everest and hiked the Camino de Santiago in Spain. 

Driving us between the curated trailheads, Jamie explains why the juniper trees in Newfoundland bend a certain way. He gets into the fascinating war history of Newfoundland, and tells us stories that give a true feel for the province. The conversation inevitably leads to moose, which dominate the popular imagination. Jamie lights up: 

“Oh there’s a lot of moose in Newfoundland, but they’re not native to the island. They came over from Maine and New Brunswick. They’re in the city, on the highways, you go to keep you’ve eyes open, especially driving at night. You never know where they are and they can hop over the guardrail and run straight into the road!” Fortunately, there’s never been any close calls with GCT passengers, and Jamie reckons moose populations are declining. “I’ve only seen about three this year on the southern shore,” he tells me. 

Stitching his stories together is the East Coast Trail, with scenery that speaks for itself. 

“The trail is getting bigger all the time,” says Jamie. “You can go on trails where you’ll be the only person around. I love seeing how different people who have never met each other before the hike create a friendship and camaraderie. By the end, I’ve seen people exchanging details and planning their next hike together. And I still get guests sending me texts years later, especially about sports scores, because they know I love my sport.” 

A phone call away, Jamie is your friendly, deeply knowledgeable local connection. He’ll point you to the best fish and chips in St John’s (The Duke of Duckworth), tell you all about local festivals, or where to visit if you have a few extra days to spare. Here’s someone who takes great pride welcoming visitors to his province, and offering a meaningful service in the process. Says Jamie: “If I don’t know the answer to the question, well, I’ll do my best to find out.”